When the pump arm pulls the bolt forward, it should automatically click the bolt into battery. At the same time, press the ejector into its mortise in the frame and hold it place with your finger to insure it remains in its correct position. The bolt is reinserted link first from the right side of the frame with the rear of the bolt held outboard so the rectangular stud on the link can be moved forward sufficiently to engage its stopped slot in the frame. The bolt is reinserted out of battery, but must be pressed all the way forward and clicked into battery for the remainder of the reassembly. The last step is optional, which is to drive off the dovetailed magazine band from right to left using a brass punch in order to facilitate cleaning around it. Just try to keep the oil out of the inletting. They all benefit from a thorough soaking in Kroil or other thin penetrating fluid to free up frozen screws and pins. The basic mechanism however, is sufficiently close to other Marlin Hammer Pumps that this can serve as a general guide for disassembly of Models 1898, 16, 17, 19, 21, 24, 26, 42 and 49.Īvoid ordering parts until you are sure you need them, as old guns can be so jammed with century-old oil turned to hard varnish and mixed with concreted powder residue and fragments of paper shell crimps that a detailed cleaning may be all the gun requires. Sold under a hardware store label of National Firearms Company circa 1915, it has the new model recoil safety lock and pinch-block takedown, but retains the simpler wood and forearm styles of the older Models. The gun depicted here is a Model 30G in 20 gauge I restored for use by a grandchild. I thought I'd write up a few of these that aren't in the disassembly manuals as they come along.
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